Question Answer
What are the main two parts of waves? Crests and troughs.
What is the highest part of the wave? Crest.
What is the lowest part of the wave? Trough.
What is the distance between two adjacent wave crests or troughs? Wavelength.
What is the vertical distance between the crest and the trough of a wave? Wave Height.
What type of movements to ocean waves make? Circular.
What is the time between the passage of two wave crests? Wave Period.
wavelength (m) = wave speed (m/s)
wave period (s)
Formula for calculating wave speed.
What are some examples of things that cause waves? Wind, earthquakes, landslides, and impacts of cosmic bodies.
What are waves that move in water deeper than one half their wavelength? Deep Water Waves.
When waves reach water shallower than one half their wavelength and then begin to interact with ocean floor, they are called? Shallow Water Waves.
What are the stages of the life span of a wave? Deep Water Waves
Shallow Water Waves.
Breakers in the break zone.
Surf on the shore.
Gravity eventually pulls high wave crest down, which causes waves to tumble downward forming ___________________. Breakers
The area where wave first break is called the _______________________. Break Zone.
What is the area between the breaker zone and the shore? Surf
What is a subsurface current that is near shore and pulls objects back out to sea? Undertow.
What is the water current that travels near and parallel to shoreline? Longshore Current.
What are white foaming waves with very steep crests that break in the open ocean before the waves get close to shore? White Caps.
What are rolling waves that move steadily across the ocean. They have longer wavelengths than white caps and can travel further? Swells.
What are waves that form when a large volume of ocean water is suddenly moved up and down such as by earthquake? Tsunamis.
What is a local rise in sea level near the shore that is caused by strong winds from a storm or hurricane? Storm Surge.

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